Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Give me your hands, if we be friends.

Okay, time for insane amounts of rambling post number two. This one is just going to be Stratford, I'm not even going to think about distilling the first few days of London yet.

Stratford-upon-Avon was easily my favorite place we have been so far. I have always loved the Bard and to be in his town (or was it?) was the most incredible thing ever. It's an old Tudor town with real Tudor houses (you don't want to know what they were made of) and it's small and lovely and everything is named after Shakespeare. Some examples: Iago Jewellers (not sure what these people were thinking), The Food of Love Cafe (from the first line of Twelfth Night), Cordelia's (King Lear), and my personal favorite, Romeo and Juliet's adult store which I find ironic because Romeo and Juliet were definately not adults.

The first day we were there, we went on a walking tour of the town with Jonathan Milton, an actor who also had a Ph.D in the Bard. He was hilarious and loud and told great stories. We saw the house where Shakespeare was born, the garden where he sat writing plays, his tomb, the houses of his children, and a few people went to see Anne Hathaway's house as well.

The best thing to do in Stratford is to see plays put on by the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC) and boy did we take advantage of it.

Monday night we went to see Antony and Cleopatra, which we were excited about, but a little wary: the play is wrechedly long. It ended up being lovely but unspectacular, a little boring, but I thought Enobarbus and Caesar were fantastic. The woman who played Cleopatra was cast against type and most of us didn't get it. (Any Harry Potter fans? It was the woman who plays Mrs. Figg in the movies.)

Tuesday night we went to see Romeo and Juliet and I was excited because it's one of my favorites. It's the first Shakespeare I ever studied and I love the movie (the one from the 70's, not the Leo DiCaprio one) but I knew a lot of people didn't like the play when we read it, so I was a little nervous. It turns out, I had no need to be. I sat on the edge of my seat for the entire three hours. The fighting scenes were intense, the masque was beautiful, and the actors were funny and lively and memorable. I fell hard for the entire play. We saw the understudy of Romeo (the lead had lost his voive in the middle of a play a few nights ago, he was sick) and he was wonderful. Mercutio was a little too much like a junior high boy for my taste, but he was wonderful just the same. I actually liked the play so much I decided to go see it againProxy-Connection: keep-alive
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he next night. I brought Mandy and Ali with me and we all enjoyed it just as much the second time. We got a surprise that the lead Romeo was better, so we got to see his play the part as well. His name was Sam Troughton and he plays Much in the British tv show Robin Hood? I fell for his Romeo big time, I may have to watch the show when I get home.

Then on Thursday night we all went to see King Lear, which seemed very subdued after two nights of Romeo and Juliet, but it was incredible all the same. Well cast, well acted, well costumed, and the set was wonderful too. It was interesting because, since RSC is an ensemble company, the cast was the same as that of Antony and Cleopatra. The one part we were all a little nervous about was Kathryn Hunter, who played Cleopatra, as Lear's fool. Again, we need no have worried because the actress proved, in this role, to be the best actor we saw on that stage this week. She was excellent as the fool, mesmerizing. Every time she was on stage, I couldn't take my eyes off her. It was, I believe, a testament to the importance of good casting.

Another exciting thing to do in Stratford is to go to the Dirty Duck after RSC performances. It's a little pub just down the street fromt he theater where all the actors come to hang out after shows. Not all of them come (no Mercutio or lead Romeo, alack) but it was really fun to see the ones that did. We actually got to talk to the understudy Romeo and he was really nice, and I almost talked to Caesar (whom, I confess, I fell for a little) but alas, I did not. We talked to Lear and saw Juliet and Antony. It was really fun.

I am excited to announce that this RSC ensemble will be traveling to New York next summer (2011) to do these plays: Antony and Cleopatra, ROMEO AND JULIET, King Lear, Julius Caesar, Winter's Tale, and As You Like It. I couldn't bear the thought that I was never going to see that Romeo and Juliet again, so the lovely Ali Morgan (who also fell for the play) and I are already planning our trip. It can't wait.

So now it's London: bus tours and sunburns in 80 degree weather, Beatles walks, West End, Shakespeare's Globe, and getting down to those finals (finally), Covent Garden, hours on the Tube, and I'm trying to reconcile falling harder for Shakespeare then I ever have before.

I love you all so much. Paris the day after tomorrow!

Monday, May 10, 2010

The Next Blog Post?

Alright friends, true confessions time.

I cannot blog. I know this will come as a surprise to most of you, but I'm pretty much the worst blogger ever. Well, except those people who never start one and therefore obviously don't care about their friends and families at all. So here is going to be a little bit stream-of-conciousness recount of the time since last I blogged:

Well, Dublin was wonderful and I thought all of the poeple there were super cool and mostly we wandered about the Temple Bar district, which was named not for the traditional pastime of the people who live there, but for the Temple family who owned the area and the "bars" they laid on the street to keep people from slipping. The area is now a Fremont meets Hillcrest meets Greenwich Villiage type area, take the reference city you most closely relate to. Lots of theaters and restaurants and, it being Ireland after all, pubs. There was lots of shopping (new shorts of Heidi) and a cool Yeats exhibit at the National Library. I made friends with a guy named Brooks at the Guinness factory, but never saw him again. We enjoyed a few meals of Irish stew with the Professor, a showing of Shakespeare's Scottish play (theater kids? Hey? Hey?) and Andrew Lloyd Weber's Evita, which was fun, but not may favorite of his plays. A few of us went to a pre-approved for cleanliness parlor and got some cool piercings and a few others got tattoos (don't worry, Pop, nothing permanant on me). It was pretty much all fun in Dublin, oh yeah and we had class in the hotel. Romeo and Juliet and Atonement were on the schedule. All fun. Not so fun was the return to the urban environment's more tragic aspects. I was blown away by the large homeless population, and they just sat on the sidewalks staring off into the distance, not saying anything, it broke my heart. I talked to a few, but they mostly didn't seem interested. Anyone know any figures? How big is the Dublin homeless population?

Leaving at 7 am was not fun. We crossed on the ferry to Wales where we wasted a glorious week at the Hafod Hotel. I arrived to find a letter from my brilliant (in the American and British senses) roommate, and continued to eat my way into oblivion. Three course dinners every night? Two course breakfasts? Yes please. I am told the other family members have commented to other travelers about the amount food was discussed in their blogs, but I assure you: it was all we did. And it was glorious. Some of the best food I have ever eaten in my life. I also went on a walk (hike?) with the Professor and some other intrepid students through the Welsh countyside, very lovely. And Welsh is not Gaelic. There were many sheep, I still have not caught or pet a lamb. The remainder of my time in Aberystwyth was taken up by reading, class (but who really cares about that anyway), and many many many games of Mafia. I fooled them all.

Last friday we took the bus to Cambridge where I am now. We enjoyed walking around, but being back to a hostel and its food is tough. Tonight they made pizza and it was good, and some of us went to a Korean restaurant called Little Seoul which I am assured by our resident Korean, Pauline Kim, was very authentic. We have rented bikes for the week (only£17!!) and are loving riding through the streets. Some people are going to see Iron Man 2 this evening, I do not care to see it and have decided to stay in for a chat with the lovely Molly Elizabeth Lorden at 12. Oh, and church was at King's College this Sunday, beautiful boys choir, and it was confirmation which was interesting. I am amazed by the humour (British spelling anyone?) of these priests. I approve. Also, I have been purchasing the British versions of the Harry Potter series in paperback at bookstores and am planning on mailing them home, expect packages Mom and Dad. I have two so far.

Well, I am looking forward to: punting, the Orchard, more bike riding, and Stratford next week. I love you all and miss you! Home in about a month.

(In other news, my Dad graduated from his doctoral program. Boy, am I proud!)

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Alright, it's been a while. I know. But two weeks of entries about the Lake District and Dingle, Ireland, would have made for pretty dull reading - promise.

Here are some highlights:

  • I read lots of books, including but not limited to: The French Lieutenant's Woman, Remains of the Day, Richard III, Henry IV Part 1, Midsummer Night's Dream, Romeo and Juliet, Any Human Heart, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, and Atonement.
  • Because of the volcano in Iceland (??) no planes were flying so we had to arrange an emergency ferry ride that resulted in a fifteen hour travel day. Not so much fun, but we passed the time reading Henry IV aloud.
  • We enjoyed a bus tour of the Dingle peninsula, a Gaelic-speaking region of Ireland with gorgeous hills and history.
  • LAMBS ARE CUTE NO MATTER HOW MANY YOU SEE!
Now we are in Dublin, which is an amazing city. Every person on the street is beautiful and fashionable. We've eaten Irish stew and shopped in cool boutiques. I've gotten some letters from home and sent a lot too. Postcards are great too (hint hint).

I may put down a more detailed account later, but it's mostly been all about class and homework and wandering. I love you all and miss you tons!

Friday, April 9, 2010

The Lake District: Part 1

April 6-8

Hello, All! The Lake District has been a departure from Edinburgh in many ways. From being in a different country to the different money to the staying in a hostel to the being in the middle of nowhere, it has certainly been an adventure. We have very little phone or internet connection and our hostel is a two-mile hike outside the bustling metropolis of Keswick, England.

We have enjoyed exploring and, mostly, beginning classes! I am taking Shakespeare, British Fiction, and Travel Writing, all of which I love. The other possible class is Medieval Literature, which revolves around a very large copy of Chaucer, and the I am not taking (woo hoo). Between classes in the morning, homework in the evening, and hiking (!!!) in the afternoon, we have packed days and are sleeping very well.

This area is completely gorgeous, rolling hills, lakes, woods, rivers, stone bridges. Although I am not too much of a country person, or one for hiking, I've enjoyed wandering about over the last few days. I actually went on my first hike ever this morning, ten miles over mountains to Castlerigg, a smaller and less preserved version of Stonehenge, and then into town for breakfast. We are all excited to head to a play and the Keswick Disco this evening, promises to be a good time.

Excitment for the future: possibly visiting Sylvia Plath's grave and the home of William Wordsworth.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Off to England!

April 5, 2010

We woke up very early this morning to pack up, enjoy one last breakfast, and squeeze in one last trip to Peter's Yard in a (seemingly and ultimately) futile attempt to spot the elusive JK Rowling. We hopped on the bus at 11:00, and beside a short stop at Grenta Green (the Vegas of the UK, where the British would come to procure a hasty marriage) for lunch, most of the day was spent on the bus. We arrived at YHA Derwentwater, our hostle and home for the next two weeks, and moved right in.

The Lake District is insanely gorgeous; waterfalls, creeks, snow-capped mountains, trees, sheep, picturesque bridges and houses, it's glorious. I'm very excited for some outdoor time, maybe I'll even go on a hike! After a shiort walk up to a view point, we all buckled down for some Chaucer homework in preperation for our first day of classes, fun (not).

The other group at the hostle is a bunch of high schoolers from Singapore, and are they ever loud! It's a fun energy to be around, though dinner was crazy. It appears, however, that we will be well-fed here. Back to our ten-person room and it is quickly to sleep, classes start tomorrow!

He is Risen!

April 4, 2010

We begain Easter Sunday by sharing a breakfast of eggs, cereal, and (cue ominous music) haggis. Many had never tried it, and I would call this a success; it was almost enjoyed! We then attended an Easter service at the same church we went to for Good Friday. The regular pastor had returned and gave a sermon about "Voting for Jesus," as the entire service was themed after the British television program "The X Factor," similar to our American Idol. We enjoyed a lunch of chicken soup and sandwiches with the church and said goodbye, taking some Cadbury Creme Eggs with us.

A few of us decided to climb to the top of Calton hill to see some monuments, for the likes of Admiral Lord Nelson, it was quite windy, and more than a little treacherousat times. We then wandered down Prince's Street, explored a little bookstore, and ended up at the Elephant House once more. We relaxed and did some reading, then had dinner at another local pub.

Bryn and I went down to the hotel's pub to do some more reading and were invited to join the pub's pop quiz. Of course we knew almost no answers, but enjoyed drawing a large dinosaur eating a pear. A very celebratory Easter, if I do say so myself.

Saturday, What a Day.

April 3, 2010

This morning we got up early and joined up with former SPUdent and British Isles traveler Jeremy, to tour the more "student-y" parts of Edinburgh. The first stop on the tour? The Writers' Museum, of course! There were special exhibits for Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Lewis Stevenson. The area outside the museum had quotes from famous Scottish authors inscribed into the pavement, my favorite was from Neil Munro, "And yet-and yet, this New Road will some day be the Old Road too." We walked through Prince's St. Park and ended in a big farmers' market behind the castle. After enjoying lunch in a restaurant behind a church (soup eated sitting atop gravestones), we saw a 3D preview of the popular British television show "Dr. Who," a block away.

After this, a few of us went to a 3 Wireless store where we purchased cell phones for the length of our stay, it has Skype, which makes calling the US a bargain (especially if you have Skype too)! Ali and I named the phone we are sharing Maurice, and he has been quite well behaved so far.

We considered climbing the hundreds of steps to the top of the Sir Walter Scott Memorial, but didn't want to pay £3, so ended up at the Edinburgh National Gallery, which was free! There we saw paintings by El Greco, Monet, Degas, Seurat, Cezane, and others. It was quite lovely.

Afterwards, we trudged back to the hotel for some relaxing of the feet before our next planned outting. At 4:30, we set out for a tour of Mary King's Close, which is supposedly the most haunted alley in the UK. A few hundred years ago, the government built new buildings on top of some of these closes, covering them completely, now it's like an underground city. This close lost over half its inhabitants during the Black Death and is, as a result, particularly haunted.

That evening, we enjoyed some dinner at the World's End, a pub located on the (no longer existing) wall of Edinburgh. After soaking my feet in some hot water, and making contact with America via my new phone, this weary woman was ready for bed.